![]() ![]() I see no reason to use uncompressed, other than for compatibility options. ![]() Either of these should produce the best quality file. Having said that, to maintain the maximum quality, I still recommend using one of the lossless compression options, and either native bit depth or 16bits. If you’re short on space, I would definitely consider using these, but be sure to keep a backup of your raw file. I did do a few quick tests and I can’t see any major compression artefacts, however they probably would become prominent if you start extensively editing the file. I haven’t done extensive testing to see the effects of the compression, as it would require a lot of testing on various different files, but I suspect it should be the equivalent to using a Jpeg file, but with extra headroom. Given that for a lot of people, the side of the DNG files when using X-Transformer was an issue, this could be a useful solution, if you are short on disk space. Bear in mind that the lossy compression results will change based on the contents of the file, and so this is just an example. I did a quick test using all of the options and here are the file sizes that I got. I much prefer C1’s output, but do miss LR’s ability to cull and sort my photoshoots via my iPad and iPhone.Just to clarify, in case there is any confusion, these options refer to compression in the resulting DNG file, and not the source RAF file. Finally, highlights in C1 seem better handled, resulting in more natural tonal graduations at the top end where LR would produce a more harsh output. I also found Lightroom applied a slight red tint on the floor of some of my woodland shots which C1 made look more natural. LR enhance details works well when needed but results in ridiculous file sizes of around 150 MB. C1 is much better here and I have no problem with noise correction, great detail is retained and out of focus areas result in a nice smooth Bokeh. I’ve generally found keeping luma noise correction at 0 in LR works best for low ISO images and prefer the noise to the poor correction that LR applies. LR worm issues seem to been caused by the detail slider under sharpening settings, put this to 0 and increase sharpening amount instead seems to fix this, I can even reproduce the worms in my Nikon raw files if I push that slider too far. I haven’t noticed the vignette issue mentioned in this article, however C1 light falloff slider does default to 0, push this up to 100% and in most cases it matches LR’s Lens correction, sometimes I’ve found 80% optimal. Concluding that C1 produced more natural film like images, it’s noise correction and sharpening algorithms are substantially better than LR, though at normal viewing distances it’s not too noticeable. I’ve spent considerable time comparing both C1 and LR for Fuji files. If you purchase it now, or any of our other tutorials, you can save a 15% by using " ARTICLE" at checkout. The content Pye covers will appeal to every level of photographer and will save you an incredible amount of time on your image editing. If you'd like to learn how to use Adobe Lightroom more efficiently on any device, make sure to check out our Mastering Adobe Lightroom course with Pye Jirsa. However, with Fujifilm X-Trans cameras, it's clear that Capture One is the better choice. This may also be the case with some Fujifilm APS-C cameras that use a Bayer sensor. Capture One and Lightroom perform admirably with Fujifilm medium format cameras. If you shoot with medium format cameras such as the GFX 100S and the new GFX 50S II, then the differences are negligible. Essentially, it makes images look like they have high ISO noise, regardless of what ISO they were shot at. The worming issue creates an unwanted variable for which there doesn't seem to be any reasonable fix. With Fujifilm, there are objective differences that cannot be ignored. There was no clear way to determine a winner because both programs produced great results. With Canon and Sony, the choice between Lightroom and Capture One was entirely down to personal preference. In this series of articles, we covered Canon, Sony, and now Fujifilm. If you're a professional photographer, it may be wise to avoid Lightroom and use Capture One instead. If you're creating content for social media, then this may be a forgivable issue. If you're a landscape photographer, you will likely come across this issue in your images. Effectively, this worming issue is going to be a problem if what you photograph contains a lot of green tones, for example, landscape photography, All of the other images tested did not demonstrate any issues. From the images that have been tested over the last month, it seems Lightroom mostly struggles with the color green. ![]()
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